“Leon Book 2. Naturally Fast Food” by H.Dimbleby and J.Vincent

Everyone who eats at a Leon restaurant wishes there was one in their town, on their street, round the corner. From its very birth in Carnaby Street six years ago, the partners of the chain, Henry Dimbleby, John Vincent and Allegra McEvedy, have grafted long and hard to bring delicious, nutricious fast food to Britain. Nine restaurants later and 50 000 happy customers a week, the Leon story has launched its owners into stardom and has created a cult of admirers and groupies. I am one of them.

 ”Leon Book 2. Naturally Fast Food”, published by Conran Octopus earlier this Autumn and written by two of the co-founders, Henry Dimbleby and John Vincent, is a 300 page tour de force. Having cooked my way through the first Leon cookbook from cover to cover, I thought that a sequel would only disappoint and distract from the earlier installment,and maybe the industry was stretching its commercial viability a tad too far. How wrong I was.

Leon Book 2 speaks to an Italian foodie on so many levels, and, in fact, there are many Italian inspired recipes within its covers ( I spy the Tuscan cookery odyssey ”Beaneaters and Bread Soup” from Lori de Mori sneaked in there, with photography by Jason Lowe). I commend this book to cooks of all ages and all abilities for so many reasons, but I will give you just five to justify my enthusiasm:

1. Leon 2 is a compelling cookbook for time poor, cash poor people who love good food and want to eat it everyday. The authors take you through the staple ingredients that create homely kitchen magic, fast food tips, tips on using your freezer to your best advantage, recipes that are bursting with flavour but lacking in fuss. Dinner in ten minutes. Done.

2. Leon 2 takes you back to home and hearth, the narrative of childhood, high days, holidays and the visceral joys of a lovely home cooked meal. There are photographs throughout the book of the authors when they were children, with their family and friends, photos of the staff of Leon, while they are eating, dancing, celebrating and turning the wheels of the Leon wagon. Little hands and big hearts.

3. Leon 2 takes the nation back into the garden, urging everyone to grow their own food. Undeterred by owning a small urban plot, Henry dug up his back lawn, and delineates how, what, when and where he grew fresh fruit, vegetables, herbs and salads. And here are the recipes showing you what he did with nature’s bounty. Bravo !

4. Leon 2 is about team work. The authors do not grab the limelight and hold on to it, they diffuse the beam of knowledge, experience and endeavour from friends, family and staff. Behold “Hattie’s Almond Smoothie” and ”Jossy’s Mystery Soup” (Josceline Dimbleby, the renowned cookery writer, has taught her children well). I like “John’s fried aubergines” and “Hoppy’s leek’s Vinaigrette”, from Simon Hopkinson. There are small badges to show you who tested the recipes. Brilliant !

5. Leon 2 shows you simplicity, frugality and sustainability, the most important concepts of our generation. The entire section on Soup, and Soup Lifters  (the odd spoonful of coriander, herb butter, melted onions, crispy parsnips etc that can add taste, texture and decoration) hits the recessionary zeitgeist. Cook slow food: it frees you up while the stew is in the oven. The basics of rice, potatoes, couscous and quinoa are transformed into feasts, and why not highlight “Corner Shop Classics”, as we are all teaching our youngsters how we must support local shops, and accrue zero food miles.

And I could also tell you how magical “Hattie and Apple’s Guide to Cooking with Kids” is, eyes devouring the duck and lettuce wraps and cheese and ham muffins all in one go. I could include the hilarious “Drawer of Wishes” where a chest is used by customers who write a wish on a scrap of paper while they are eating, and then leave it in one of its drawers. Oh, and I could write that the “Acknowledgements” section is the very best I have ever seen after collecting over 500 cookery books, a huge, double page “Thank-you” spread for all the staff, family and friends that have helped, inspired, supported and motivated the authors from childhood to now.

But I think I will leave you instead with just one overriding impression. The manner in which this book was conceived, written, composed, photographed and styled, I think, sets the standard for all cookbooks to aspire to. Herein lies the future of cookbook publishing.

Did you enjoy this article?
If you would like to subscribe to my mailing list just add your name and email address to the boxes below.